Another Margarine or Butter “Health” Article
I was reading the Summer 2012 edition of “Woman’s Weekly Health” earlier, when I came across this double page spread debating whether Margarine or Butter is better for your health. Fighting the corner for butter was a cook, Fran Abdallaoui. Arguing the case for margarine was Barbara Eden, Nutrition Manager at National Heart Foundation of Australia. I'm not sure how pitching a cook against a nutritionist (especially one representing the national heart foundation) is a balanced debate. I don’t think they want their readers to side with butter, do you?
Eden says “It comes down to your health and that’s the main factor your (SIC) considering when choosing between margarine and butter, there’s really no choice to make”. She also tells readers that “A regular butter is made up of… more than four per cent trans fat”, which I find frustratingly misleading, since natural, completely inert trans fats – as found in animal products – are completely different to the harmful trans fats found in many processed foods.
This is all because Eden believes “It’s the saturated fat and trans fat in our food supply that elevates your blood cholesterol levels which increase the risk of heart disease and stroke, and that’s one of the leading causes of death in Australia”
The article also adds “there is the convenience factor of the immediately spreadable product with a longer shelf life” as another reason we should go for margarine instead of butter. Well, using that argument, shouldn't we all have frozen pizza for dinner – it’s a lot more convenient and has a far longer shelf life than whole food…
In a “health” magazine, readers are going to place much more confidence in a nutritionist (especially one representing the national heart foundation) than they would a cook. If they really want to present a debate, surely they should present both sides, equally? Or better still, finally run an article about how wrong they've had it for the past few decades. I must stop reading “health” magazines – they raise my cortisol levels more than almost anything else and that’s definitely not good for my health!
Butter vs Margarine: Looking Beyond the Label
At face value, it seems like a simple choice — opt for the spread that has fewer saturated fats and a longer shelf life, right? But when you dig deeper into the origins, composition, and long-term health implications of both butter and margarine, it’s anything but simple. And yet, mainstream media continues to present the argument in binary terms, usually casting margarine as the sensible, science-backed choice and butter as an indulgent relic of a less informed era. Let’s dismantle that narrative.
The Origins of Margarine: A Processed Solution
Margarine was invented in the 1800s as a cheap substitute for butter. Over time, it became a Frankenstein’s monster of hydrogenated oils, colourants, emulsifiers, and synthetic vitamins — all engineered to resemble butter while undercutting it in cost. Early margarine was rich in industrial trans fats, which numerous studies have since linked to inflammation, insulin resistance, and cardiovascular disease.
Even though many manufacturers have reduced or removed trans fats in modern margarine, the product is still made by highly processing seed oils, often through chemical extraction and deodorisation — not something your great-grandmother would have recognised as food. In contrast, butter is made by churning cream. That’s it.
The Demonisation of Saturated Fat
One of the pillars of margarine’s marketing success lies in the demonisation of saturated fat. For decades, saturated fat was blamed for rising heart disease rates, based largely on flawed observational studies. Yet more recent research, including meta-analyses, has challenged this narrative. The relationship between saturated fat and heart disease is not as clear-cut as once believed.
Butter contains saturated fat, yes. But it also offers conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), fat-soluble vitamins like A, D, E and K2 (especially from grass-fed sources), and a natural fatty acid profile that humans have consumed for millennia. Margarine, by contrast, may be artificially fortified, but it simply doesn’t compare in terms of nutrient bioavailability or synergy.
The Role of Seed Oils in Inflammation
Many margarine products are made using vegetable oils such as canola, soybean, and sunflower oil. These are rich in omega-6 polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs). While omega-6 is an essential fatty acid, excessive intake relative to omega-3 can tip the balance toward systemic inflammation — a key player in many chronic diseases.
Modern diets are heavily skewed toward omega-6, thanks to the widespread use of industrial seed oils in processed foods. Butter, on the other hand, offers a more balanced fatty acid profile, with less potential for disrupting the body’s natural inflammatory responses.
Marketing vs Real Nutrition
The margarine vs butter debate often hinges on one key phrase: “heart healthy”. That label has been stamped on numerous low-fat, processed products over the years — many of which are far from nourishing. The real question is: who decides what qualifies as heart healthy?
Organisations like the Heart Foundation have historically relied on industry funding and outdated dietary guidelines. Their views on fat have slowly evolved, but they remain rooted in a model that favours products fitting a certain nutritional profile on paper — low saturated fat, high unsaturated fat — without always considering the real-world impact of ultra-processed replacements.
Whole Food Wins Every Time
If your primary goal is health, it’s hard to beat food in its natural state. Butter is a whole food — minimally processed, nutrient-rich, and easily recognisable as such. Margarine, no matter how it’s reformulated, remains a product of food science — not nature. This matters.
Our bodies evolved consuming fats from animals and plants in their natural form. Introducing chemically altered versions designed for cost-efficiency or shelf life doesn’t support optimal health. In fact, it raises a bigger question: how many chronic diseases are driven not by dietary fat itself, but by the kind of fat we’re consuming?
Butter in the Context of a Balanced Paleo Diet
For those following a Paleo-inspired approach, the choice between butter and margarine is crystal clear. While strict Paleo purists may exclude dairy altogether, many modern interpretations include ghee (clarified butter) due to its lactose-free profile and traditional roots.
Butter from grass-fed cows can be a fantastic source of nutrients — and it supports satiety, hormone production, and fat-soluble vitamin absorption. Used in moderation, it can be part of a deeply nourishing, anti-inflammatory way of eating. Compare that to margarine, which serves no purpose other than to mimic something better than itself.
Why Butter Is Still Under Fire
So why do health magazines and public health campaigns still push margarine? It often comes down to lingering dogma, commercial interests, and an unwillingness to challenge outdated paradigms. Once a narrative takes hold — “saturated fat equals heart disease” — it’s remarkably difficult to reverse, even in the face of new evidence.
It also doesn’t help that margarine is often cheaper and more profitable than butter, especially at scale. It’s easier to mass-produce, tweak to hit target fat ratios, and promote as part of heart-healthy “lite” diets. But none of those factors make it the better nutritional choice.
Don’t Be Fooled by Convenience
Convenience is another red herring in this debate. Sure, margarine spreads straight from the fridge and lasts for months, but that’s not a good enough reason to consume something that may compromise long-term health. Butter may require a bit of softening before spreading, but it’s a small trade-off for something real.
Real food isn’t always the most convenient option. Neither is prioritising your health. But when the long-term benefits include reduced inflammation, better metabolic health, and a lower toxic load, it’s hard to argue that convenience should win.
The Bottom Line
The truth is, no matter how “improved” margarine becomes, it will always be a product designed to imitate something nature got right the first time. Butter, especially when made from the milk of healthy, pasture-raised cows, is a naturally nourishing fat with a track record spanning centuries.
Rather than buying into a narrow, fear-driven debate about saturated fat, let’s zoom out. The real issue isn’t about butter vs margarine. It’s about real food vs ultra-processed food. It’s about tuning out the noise of marketing and trusting what our bodies have thrived on for generations.
So next time you find yourself reading a health magazine that sings the praises of margarine, remember this: just because something spreads easily, doesn’t mean it should be spread on your toast.